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现代褶裥绣 -- 菱形纹制作【转贴】

2013-2-19 17:30| 发布者: ilang| 查看: 6029| 评论: 55|原作者: sleepy_owl

摘要: 此贴转自 http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/16176/modern-smocking-lozenge-pattern 要看更多的现代褶裥绣作品,请看我的另一贴: 由平面到立体--现代褶裥绣令人神往 类似这种的绣法都是操作 ...
        此贴转自

                http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/16176/modern-smocking-lozenge-pattern

        要看更多的现代褶裥绣作品,请看我的另一贴:
               由平面到立体--现代褶裥绣令人神往

       类似这种的绣法都是操作距离相同的点,通过规律性地重复聚集相对位置特定的几个点(2个、3个或更多)来达到特定的表面结构,因此这种绣法被称为点格褶裥绣 (Lattice Smocking)。它还有其它两个名称,北美褶裥绣 (Norther American Smocking),或加拿大褶裥绣 (Canadian Smocking).。

Modern Smocking Lozenge Pattern


Scott Phillips


Jack Deutsch


Scott Phillips


Photo: Jack Deutsch

Smocking is an age-old technique typically used in heirloom and historical garments. However, this traditional surface embellishment is making a comeback in unexpected ways in modern design. It was a featured technique on Lifetime Television’s Project Runway, and has resurfaced on ready-to-wear, and on designer runways.

The following pattern variation on North American smocking, known as the lozenge, is sewn using a grid that alternates taut and slack stitches. Once you get the knack of this variation, you can try creating other designs on a grid and stitching your own version. By changing the scale, placement, or number of repeats, you can fabricate an interesting smocked look.

North American smocking takes up fabric lengthwise and widthwise. Plan your design, and expand your pattern to accommodate the extra fabric needed.


Choose your fabric
Smocking works best on light- to medium-weight fabrics. The technique creates multiple folds and pleats, so don’t select a material that has a lot of bulk. Typically, smocking takes up about two to three times the fabric’s width and length. If your pleats are very deep, more fabric is needed. Always test your design on scrap fabric first to estimate how much yardage you need.

Adjust your pattern
Before stitching the design,  measure a test fabric’s length and width. Smock the fabric, and measure it again. Divide the fabric’s original length and width by the new measurements. Multiply the quotient by your target measurement to determine how much fabric is needed.

For example, my 10-inch square scrap became a 5-inch square after smocking a lattice pattern (see Threads 151 to get lattice pattern). I wanted to cover the blouse front’s finished neckline, which was 13 inches wide by 4 inches long. I needed to expand the pattern’s width to 26 inches and its length to 8 inches.
Follow the grid to stitch the design
Now that your pattern is expanded to the necessary measurements, mark out your design’s grid, and stitch the smocking. The alternating taut and slack stitches help create the North American smocking’s distinctive look. Traditionally, these dots are sewn on a very small scale, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart. Here the scale is enlarged to 1 inch for a modern look.
Work from left to right to create rows of the lozenge pattern. Arrows represent taut stitches, and solid red lines represent slack stitches.






1. Draw a grid on your fabric’s wrong side using a temporary fabric-marking tool. The dots represent each stitch; take care to make sure they are spaced evenly.

2. Begin your stitch design. Follow one of the grids below to sew the smocking. Begin at dot 1. Then pick up dot 2 with your needle, and pull the thread taut to 1.

3. Pick up dot 3 with your needle, but do not pull the thread taut. Tie a knot to secure the slack thread.

4. Pick up dot 4, and pull it taut to dot 3. Continue alternating between taut and slack stitches. At the end of the row or column, tie off the thread. Add more rows or columns as desired.

excerpted from Threads #151, p.68



是个好主意,不过扎成玫瑰花式图案更好看。


貌似很复杂,其实图案极简单,试过就知道了。


也可以用于别的地方,比如说抱枕、包包等。


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最新评论

野地蔷薇2011-8-8 14:18
要有多些立体花的步骤就好了。
jkpa2011-8-21 18:14
很漂亮
{:soso__5685316203845665743_1:}
lolilg2011-9-13 10:37
做婚纱大拖尾蛮好
sleepy_owl2011-9-13 15:43
lolilg 发表于 2011-9-13 10:37
做婚纱大拖尾蛮好

是个好主意,不过扎成玫瑰花式图案更好看。
sollosa2011-12-6 23:59
现收藏了,慢慢研究
kikii2011-12-22 12:56
ms很复杂啊。。。
收藏了先
sleepy_owl2011-12-22 13:45
kikii 发表于 2011-12-22 12:56
ms很复杂啊。。。
收藏了先

貌似很复杂,其实图案极简单,试过就知道了。
cocochanidien2012-2-22 23:47
先收了回头去试一下,谢谢了
405151732012-4-3 20:48
谢了,衣服很好看,有没有详细的
moxa2012-4-13 21:17
非常喜欢,多谢楼主分享~~
小夏荷2012-5-11 00:25
好漂亮啊!!!真想自己动手做做。
island8112012-5-11 08:32
看上去有點複雜,謝謝樓主的分享啊﹗
清岚薄雾2012-7-19 21:13
还是第一次见到这个
完全可以应用到服装上的绣法
衣服很好看
阿黛尔2012-7-20 12:34
感谢楼主分享。           
新逸布坊2012-7-26 13:51
很漂亮!谢谢分享!
hungkat2012-7-31 19:10
挺特別的,謝謝樓主的分享﹗^^
淩小丫2012-8-2 17:27
衣服整成这种收腰还挺好看呐
lsfxgj2012-8-27 22:46
很好看的纹路,多谢楼主分享!!!1
水蓝蓝2012-8-28 19:39
先收藏了,慢慢研究

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